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Thursday, October 26, 2006

TurboCAD Mac

TurboCAD Mac Pro is packed with the highest quality drafting tools and the latest ACIS realistic rendering engine. Create 3D models and precise 2D drawings, enjoy 11,000+ 2D/3D symbols, and easily import/export to 19 common file types. Anything you can dream up, TurboCAD Mac Pro brings to life. Supporting the Intel Core Duo Processors!
Learn more here

Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Noisy PC? (hard drive)

If your hard drive is making an obnoxious noise every time you run a program or open a large file or if your hard drive is simply getting too full to hold all of your data, it could be time to invest in a new hard drive.

If you’re wondering whether your hard drive is wearing out, you can check it using an online program such as Western Digital’s free Data Lifeguard Online Diagnostics (support.wdc.com/dlg) or a Windows hard drive scanning utility. In Windows 95/98/Me click Start, Programs, Accessories, System Tools, and ScanDisk to check your hard drive for errors; in Windows XP/2000 click Start, All Programs, System Tools, Disk Defragmenter, and the Analyze button.


Noisy PC?

PCs have become increasingly noisy as PC components have increased in speed and in the amount of heat they generate. This heat is normally dissipated via a variety of fans inside the case and these fans are the major source of noise. They are not the only source of noise though, hard disks have platters that spin at very high speeds, badly designed cases have side panels that rattle, and optical drives like DVD and CD drives generate noise too.



The cheapest ways of reducing noise in your PC – free options:

1. Check that your PC case is standing flat on it’s feet. Reduce vibration between the PC and the table/floor. Experiment with rubber mats or even old mouse mats. Many cases need to take air in from the underside of the case so do avoid blocking any air vents. Avoid objects resting against the outside of your PC case.
2. Ensure that internal components like hard disks, optical drives and other moving parts are secured down firmly and screwed down tight. Do the same with the side panels of your case.
3. Use tie wraps to secure loose cables inside the case to prevent them from touching moving parts (avoid the use of rubber bands as these get brittle over time and they break into little pieces which get into fans)
4. Vacuum the dust out of your PC. Dust clogs up fans causing them to get louder over time
5. If your CRT monitor generates a buzzing sound or audible hiss then it is faulty, the manufacturer should be willing to repair/replace it
6. Keep devices like mobiles – and other objects capable of electromagnetic interference – far away from PCs. Note that baby monitors, washing machines and a range of other household devices can interfere with your PC and/or cause your speakers to hiss, click or burst into pops.
7. Depending on your operating system and modem you can usually set your modem to “silent” mode so it doesn't make a noise when dialing out.
8. You could also experiment with the “Power” settings in the Windows control panel to set hard disks/monitors/fans to turn off in a pre-determined time if the PC is not being used. Read the Windows help file on what the various suspend/sleep and other modes mean. You can also turn off the "Windows" sounds i.e. the automatic wav files that are associated with Windows starting up, shutting down and running a variety of other tasks.
The cheapest ways of reducing noise – for PC Builders

1. Use sleeve fans rather than bearing fans when possible
2. Check dba ratings on all fans you use – from the CPU fan to the case/chassis fan to the PSU.
3. Be aware that many components that come with fans are also available in no-fan versions - including motherboards with just a heat-sink and no fan on the Northbridge - and power supplies that are based more on music system power supplies and don’t need active cooling.
4. When using fans use larger fans with a lower rpm. A 120 mm chassis (case) fan running at a low rpm will generate the same cfm (cubic feet per minute) of airflow as an 80 mm fan running at a higher rpm, but will generally make less noise.
5. Avoid using PCI slot 1. Keep some distance between the graphics card fan and other PCI cards so air from the graphics card fan will not be obstructed.
6. Some hard disks are sold as “Quiet” drives, they tend to not cost any more than standard hard disks. Shop around for quiet drives.
7. 5400 rpm hard disks may not be quieter than the low noise 7200 or 10000 rpm disks. Higher rpm generally mean more whine BUT many of the higher rpm “performance” hard disks use fluid dynamic bearings and other clever technologies to run very quietly indeed.
8. Route your cables carefully. When they block airflow they add to the noise.
9. Choose your case carefully. Buying a quality case will allow you to add other sound control features later.
10. Use the right wattage of PSU. If your PC requires a 350 Watt PSU it tends to be neither quieter nor environmentally friendly to use a 550 watt one.
11. If you have grills on the case they may look pretty but if they have a chassis fan behind them they will disrupt the air coming out of the fan - and that makes a noise.
12. Use filters over air vents for the air intake fans. Dust getting into the PC will make the fans noisier over time. (Washable filters are obviously preferable to the throwaway ones)
13. Identify all the moving parts and make sure they are secured well and are not vibrating. This goes for everything from the fan screwed onto the CPU heat sink to the optical drives, hard disk, chassis fans and even the PSU. Use tie wraps and other securing mechanisms if necessary. They can even be used in addition to the normal retaining screws on devices like optical drives
14. Identify other parts that could move or vibrate. Securing the hard disk firmly is not sufficient if the hard disk carriage/cage moves about or rattles. Secure the cage with tie wraps.
15. Be always conscious that heat is a killer and if you compromise on heat dissipation then parts could burn out and the overall lifespan of your PC will be lowered.

Friday, October 06, 2006

Fast, Inexpensive Hard Drive Recovery

Hard Drive MechanicTM is the best hard drive data recovery software available. It fixes 99% of hard drive data recovery problems. Hard Drive Mechanic has been recovering hard drive data successfully since 1997 and we have hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers.

Hard drive failure is very upsetting because your hard drive holds all your valuable data files. You could send your hard drive out for repair. But then you have to remove it from your computer or transport your computer to a repair site. This takes time and can be expensive. Also there is no guarantee that your hard drive data will be recovered.

Hard Drive Mechanic is hard drive data recovery software that can work better for you because it is faster, more convenient and the results are guaranteed.

Learn more here.

What is Spyware and Adware?

Spyware and adware are software programs that are made with the Intention of allowing individuals and companies to spy on your web browsing activities. These programs literally invade your privacy, slow down your system and annoy you with constant popups.

Do these programs affect everyone or just some users?

* Spyware and adware programs affect everyone
* Every single piece of information that you enter on the web can be intercepted by an unauthorized person or entity
* Unauthorized websites can wind up on your desktop and in your Internet favorites
* Every step you make on the Internet can be tracked and watched
* The information obtained about you can be sold without your consent or your knowledge
* Unwanted toolbars and searchbars can attach themselves to your browser without your knowledge or approval
* Your default homepage and settings can be hijacked so you can't change them

These programs install themselves and slow down your PC by taking up vast amounts of hard drive space, and worse yet, you can’t remove them without help. Click here to learn more.

Buy a Great Laptop and Get a Free Laser Printer! Ends 10/31/06

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Sooner or later, a faltering hard disk, CPU, or other component will bring your PC to its knees. If a dead machine means you can't do your job, the failure may bring you to your knees as well, begging your boss or an angry client for mercy.

Waiting for the IT department or the local repair shop to fix your system, or arranging to use a loaner machine, can cost you hours of valuable work time. What you really need when disaster strikes is a way to get up and running fast.

First, find out what caused the problem: Wisps of acrid smoke wafting from your monitor's case, for example, send a very clear message. Unfortunately, the source of problems is rarely so obvious. Maybe a chip has failed, a Windows driver has been corrupted, or a cable has come loose. You can easily lose countless hours just trying to figure out what's wrong. Always remember the first rule of do-it-yourself PC repair: Know when to quit.

Or at least know when to ask--or pay--for expert help. Place a dollar value on an hour of your time and keep tabs on how much "money" you've invested as you go. It probably won't be too long before paying $35 to your PC maker's tech support line will seem like money well spent.

Save time by being prepared. When an airplane starts to sputter, the pilot pulls out a checklist and performs tasks that are known to work. Here's a troubleshooting checklist for your PC.

Check the obvious first: Make sure that all your power switches are turned on, and that your cables and cords are securely connected. Don't forget to check the fuse or reset switch on your surge protector.

Look in Device Manager: Windows' Device Manager will tell you if a component isn't working properly. To open Device Manager in Windows 98, Me, and 2000, right-click My Computer and select Properties (or press Windows- Break if you have a Windows keyboard) to open System Properties, and choose the Device Manager tab. In Windows XP, open System Properties as described above, select the Hardware tab, and click the Device Manager button.

A red X or a yellow circle with an exclamation point appearing next to the name of a device indicates a problem. Double-click the listing to display the device's Properties screen, and then look in the 'Device status' box for more information.

Test your suspicions: If you think a sound card, network adapter, CD-RW drive, or other device is misbehaving, disable it and see if the problem goes away. Open the device's Properties dialog box as described above. Under the General tab, choose Disable in this hardware profile (in Windows 98, Me, and 2000), or Do not use this device (disable) on the 'Device usage' drop-down menu (in Windows XP).

Check the plumbing: Turn off and unplug your PC, open its case, and make sure every cable, cord, and connector is properly attached. Before you start handling your PC's internals, make sure that you're properly grounded. It's best to use a grounding wrist strap, which costs about $10 at your local electronics store, but you can also discharge yourself momentarily by touching an antenna, water pipe, or other grounded object.

Sometimes detaching a connector and then reattaching it will take care of the problem. Likewise, expansion cards suffer from "creep"--they slowly work their way out of their motherboard slots. Carefully remove and replace them to ensure that they're properly reseated.

Try a different driver: Many hardware problems arise from conflicts relating to a device's software drivers. Check the Web site of your system or device manufacturer for updates. To find the version of your currently installed driver, open its Properties dialog box as described above and click the Driver tab. Windows XP has a handy button on the tab that lets you reinstall an old driver when a newly installed one causes problems. (This happens more often than you might think, especially with graphics-card drivers.)

Perform some tests: Running a hardware-diagnostic program such as #1-PC Diagnostics' #1-TuffTest will perform a thorough check of your PC's hardware. You can download a limited free version. The more powerful shareware version of the utility is well worth the $10 price, however.

How to avoid printers paper jam

To avoid printer paper jams, make sure that all the paper in the tray is the same type and weight. (The most common paper weight is 20 pounds; it's usually listed on the package.) Don't mix photo paper, heavy card stock, and plain paper, for example. Always store your paper flat. If your printer comes with a vertical feed tray and you don't print often, flip the paper around to prevent it from curling in the tray. Use a can of compressed air (it costs about $6 at your local electronics store) to keep the insides of the printer free of dust and dirt. Gently remove bits of paper or labels that may be stuck on the feed rollers. Squirt a light coating of window cleaner on a sheet of paper (don't saturate it), and use the paper-feed button to send the sheet through the printer a few times. Then repeat the operation with several passes of dry paper to remove excess moisture from the rollers.

Lost Bookmarks in Firefox?

Mozilla-based browsers like Firefox and Mozilla Suite store your bookmarks in the file "bookmarks.html" located in the profile folder. There is a backup file called "bookmarks.bak", and Firefox versions 1.5 and higher also create up to five daily backups called "bookmarks-(date).html".

You can open and read these files with your browser. To locate the files you can use your operating system’s file and folder search feature, or you can open the profile folder and look through its contents. To find all bookmarks files anywhere on your computer, search for bookmarks* (be sure to include the asterisk, with no space). Windows 2000/XP users will need to enable viewing of hidden files and folders. For searching in Windows XP, you must select the "Search hidden files and folders" option in the Search box.

If changes to the toolbar reset themselves after you close Firefox and start it up again, you probably have a corrupt "localstore.rdf" file in the profile folder. You can fix this problem (and possibly others such as missing search engines, disappearing bookmarks or the "Add Bookmark" dialog not working) by using either one of these solutions:

Firefox 1.5 or later

Exit Firefox completely and then start it in safe mode. A window called Firefox Safe Mode with some troubleshooting options will appear. Select the option "Reset toolbars and controls" and choose "Make Changes and Restart".

All Firefox versions

Exit Firefox completely and then open the profile folder and delete the file "localstore.rdf". Make sure to delete the "localstore.rdf" file in the profile folder, not any in other locations such as under "Program Files".